Let's have a look inside the A unit.
(Pop-up photo here.) You need to remove the coupler from the front of the unit only to get at the shell. You don't need to touch the back coupler or drawbar holder (depending on roadname), nor do you need to remove the "coupler cradle"; just unscrew it enough to slide the factory-assembled coupler (a "1050" if I read the parts sheet correctly) out of its location. If you can avoid pulling the coupler cradle out while doing this, so much the better. I had a non-trivial time trying to get it back where it belonged as it sort of snaps into place. Once you're through removing the coupler, the shell is easy and typical. Just spread the sides of it enough to enable the chassis to slide out.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
What you'll find is the tried and true metal split-frame mechanism, with copper contacts serving as the conduit for power between wheels and motor. There is a printed circuit board sitting atop this. The motor is set inside the frame and looks a little smaller than what I am used to seeing inside a 1:160 diesel, but then, I have not had to take one apart lately. All eight wheels are gear driven, as you would expect.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
Warning on the following statement: I am not a DCC user, nor have I ever attempted to be. It looks as though there is plenty of room for a decoder in the recessed area of the split frame. The PC board contacts the frame using copper strips as well, not wires. Seems to me that a decoder board is an easy swap-out. You will need to figure out how to ensure that the white LED that serves as the headlight continues to receive power. I'll leave that exercise to the reader who needs to do so. [Note that Digitrax has already announced a replacement decoder board which they say will be available as of October 1,2002. Please check their website for details. This is not an endorsement.] I did not attempt to look into the B unit, but I imagine I'd see about the same thing, without a headlight of course. MTL advises that to get at that chassis you will need to remove both the T-shanks that hold either couplers or drawbars, again depending on road.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
A quick note about that drawbar, while I'm thinking about it. It is a small "slippery engineering plastic" piece that has hooks at either end. It snaps into place onto pins that extend upward from the top of the T-shank, almost like fitting into a slot except that you also have to catch the pin. Sound a little complicated? It can be a bit trying, at least it was for me. I have not yet determined the easiest, most efficient method of attaching the drawbar to these units. But once on properly, I don't see any way it will ever come loose in normal operation. It's worth a little practice for that outcome. Un-drawbaring will take a little getting used to as well; you definitely don't want to break either of the hooks. I predict a bit of spare parts business for the folks in Talent on this item; meanwhile, I suggest that it's easier to leave the drawbar attached to the B unit and detached from the A unit if you need to store these locos seperately... like, in the box and cradle they came in.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
Now, for the moment of truth... the running of the FTs. As a background, let me state that I have about a 53 foot (1.6 scale mile) mainline run on my layout, which incorporates some slight grades (say 1% or so) and plenty of curves along the way, so I can do a reasonable simulation of "real life" N Scale Railroading. Sorry, no scientifically constructed test tracks here! (But as I said at the top of this review, there are others who do that, and that's a good thing.) I use Atlas Code 80 track and turnouts exclusively, have mostly a 19 inch minimum radius on the visible portion of the line and an 11 inch minimum radius in hidden trackage, staging and one place on the visible section where I have to cheat. My wiring is cab control and I use an MRC Tech II Railmaster 2400 for power, which has a choice of with or without pulse injection. In other words, it's what I think a typical non-DCC model rail might have to run the pike. In all cases, I ran the A and B pair together, since that is what the New York Central did with the real ones.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
I started off by doing a lap with the locos only at the 40 setting on the Tech II without pulse power, which is about the setting at which I like to run my trains. Not too slow and not too fast. (I think the 40 setting translates to 40% power out of the rheostat, but that's just my interpretation. It works for me.) The elapsed time to complete the circuit was three minutes and 17 seconds, which translates to a scale speed of about 29 miles per hour. It looks a good bit slower than that when watching it! Interestingly, at the same setting with pulse turned on, it's faster; 2 minutes 20 seconds to loop or about 41 miles per hour. There was absolutely no problem negotiating any of the trackage, turnouts or the "street running" portion of my pike, and I would hardly call my track flawless.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
Still with the engines only, I next went for the extreme. I set the timer, cranked the throttle to "full" and switched on the power. Without pulse engaged, the FTs tore around the 53 foot run in 44 seconds, or 131 mph; with pulse they screamed around in 41 seconds, or 140.5 mph. That's more than double the prototype maximum speed of 65 miles per hour with the available 62:15 gear ratio. On the other hand, who but disobedient children, troublemaking visitors, and the Addams Family run their trains at full tilt? MTL itself notes that the maximum voltage that should be applied is 10 volts DC. The typical power pack puts out more than that when it is at full throttle. And a quick check of a summary of N Scale loco tests performed by the magazine Rail Model Journal showed that nearly every engine they tested broke triple digits at the high end, and a few broke 200 mph.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
At the other extreme, the locos consistently moved at about the 15 setting without pulse, so I timed that. It took two minutes and 45 seconds at that setting to move three feet on straight track. That would be just over two miles an hour. So I don't think slow speed will be an issue. DCC users will probably be able to take that even lower since they can have finer control over the situation. I think. Meanwhile, the white LED shone brightly throughout all of these tests. ©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
In terms of smoothness of running I'd put the FTs on par with any other high-end diesel on the market (translation: Atlas, Kato, later Life-Likes). Anything that can do two scale miles per hour is not going to have any issues there, and these locos don't; they moved well with no jerking or hesitation throughout their expected speed range. And again, this is on my "real world" layout which has its share of dust and imperfect trackwork. With respect to noise, I think this is the most subjective of all attributes. But I had no complaints there. You might take the possible exception of a bit of loudness on the very high speed end, which I and most runners won't use anyway. Also keep in mind that this testing was right out of the box and you'd expect some break-in running to further improve these characteristics.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
All well and good, so time to add a train. I pulled out a bunch of my Micro-Trains 40 foot boxcars, of various vintages from the "Class of '72" original runs complete with rib wheels to some releases of the past year. The amount that these cars had been run also varied, from "not yet" to "worn out and looking it," and therefore the amount of wheel wear and grime collected also varied. In other words, a typical cross section of what one might find behind these locos. My typical train won't exceed 15 cars so that's where I started, with fourteen 40 foot cars and a Micro-Trains NYC wood caboose. The pair of FTs pulled that without breaking a sweat, doing the lap in 3 minutes 41 seconds at the 40 speed setting, or about 26 miles per hour. So I doubled the length of the train to 30 cars by adding another fifteen 40 foot boxcars. Still not an issue. On went 15 more, to bring the total train length to 45 cars. That's coming up on three pounds worth of train, and with the exception of a breakaway while starting up, no worries. At 45 cars, you're starting to defy the laws of physics on my layout with respect to the train being on too many curves at a time, so that's where I stopped after doing three complete laps (the last two with the kids watching). I have no doubt that train behind the FTs could be quite longer still, but it would take a larger layout than mine to illustrate that.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
Here's a real pleasant surprise, though. I have what I call the "starter" layout, which I built to illustrate how little room and budget is required to begin in N Scale. This pike is just big enough to hold a minimum size oval, 21 by 26 inches, and includes a circle of 9 3/4 inch Atlas track, a turnout and a rerailer. Total track distance, not even six feet. This starter loop is powered by a train set pack, the cheapest of the cheap. Just for giggles, I put the FT pair on this layout to see if it would negotiate the 9 3/4 inch circle, which it did, and then to see how slow I could run them even with a cheap train set pack. The answer: right around two and one half scale miles per hour. Now, I'm really impressed!
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You might have noticed that I didn't comment up to this point on the paint job. Micro-Trains is well known as the head of the line in this area, and the NYC decoration including the nose stripes and herald doesn't disappoint. But other than that, frankly, the as-delivered NYC scheme, which is all black with minimal white lettering, is not that much of a challenge. The other announced schemes, including for example the Reading, will be much more of a test, and as these roadnames are released we'll cover them in the main UMTRR and offer our views then.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.
Overall, I'd say that my high expectations for these units were met, and I'm looking forward to seeing more from the folks in Talent. The marketplace is, to say the least, interesting, as there are two manufacturers offering the same engine, after no one had produced it in plastic in the history of N Scale. It's going to be a horse race, no doubt about that. But Micro-Trains has entered a thoroughbred.
©2002 George J. Irwin. All Rights Reserved. Reposting Prohibited.